Is It Necessary to Sand Stairs Before I Stain Them Again

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Adding a fresh coat of stain can really bring out the beauty in a wooden staircase. If you're refinishing an sometime staircase, it's important to take the time to repair, strip, and sand the stairs earlier staining them. With new stairs, you can motion right to applying coats of coordinating woods conditioner, stain, and varnish. Staining stairs requires at least a full weekend of work, with a lot of attention to particular—only it's a peachy DIY job!

1. 1

   Check if the wood is suitable for staining. According to handyman Walter Brant, "If it is in very poor condition, it would exist ameliorate to pain the forest. Some steps were built only for carpeting." Brant also suggests "pulling up the carpet on the bottom step and checking the woods. If it has large cracks filled with paint, staining it would expect bad considering the pigment can't exist removed." If yous're uncertain about how the staining would look, Brant advises "following the instructions below and staining the bottom step. If you paint the steps, enquire at a paint store which paint is potent plenty to walk on."^[1]

2. 2

   Strip away any carpeting cloth with pliers and a pry bar. Pull upwardly the carpeting and padding, any wooden carpet strips, and the staples or tacks holding everything in place. Use pliers to pick up the rug at corners and edges. Switch to a pry bar only if the pliers aren't doing the chore, since it's more than probable to damage the wood.^[2]

   • Wear heavy-duty work gloves and sturdy, long pants and a long-sleeve shirt when removing carpet. Yous'll come across lots of sharp tacks and/or staples!

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3. three

   Move, cover, or seal off furniture and other items near the staircase. Depending on the chore, y'all'll either be doing some sanding or a lot of sanding. In any case, you lot'll create a lot of dust. Move what can be moved, and cover what tin't be moved with plastic sheeting or drop cloths.^[3]

   • Seal off whatsoever nearby interior doorways with plastic sheeting. Affix information technology with masking tape. All the same, don't seal off a doorway if it provides your closest source of fresh air ventilation, such as a window or exterior door.
   • Lay downwards drop cloths on nearby floors or carpets.

4. 4

   Create ventilation by opening any nearby windows or doors. Ventilating the expanse helps dissipate some of the dust from sanding. It'south even more important to ventilate the area when you're using chemical strippers or applying stain. Otherwise, potentially dangerous fumes may build up and possibly crusade you lot harm.^[4]

   • For added safety, also clothing a respirator and goggles to protect yourself from any fumes and small dust particles. A dust mask volition go along you from breathing in sanding dust, but won't prevent you from inhaling fumes.

5. v

   Hammer down any loose or protruding nails. Handyman Walter Brant suggests "hammering the nails slightly below the surface if you lot will be sanding off the top surface of the steps. A boom would tear upwardly the sanding belt and stick out after the sanding is finished. If you lot volition not exist sanding off the superlative of the steps, hammer down the nails to the surface of the steps." If y'all're concerned about marring the wood with hammer blows, Brant advises "using a nail set to to make sure all of the blast heads are even with the surrounding forest."

   • Boom sets wait like tiny spike or a actually thick blast.^[5]

6. half-dozen

   Tape off whatsoever adjacent surfaces that yous want to protect. For instance, record the area where each stair tread and riser meets the wall. Apply the tape to the wall, so that you have total access to the stairs.^[vi]

   • Use painter's tape for the best results, or regular masking record.
   • Exit the tape in place until the entire task is finished.

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1. 1

   Use a chemical stripper for stairs with thick paint or heavy stain. If the stairs have simply 1-2 coats of paint or a lite stain, you can skip directly to sanding. For thick layers of pigment or stain, though, a chemic stripper is a sensible first step, so long as you follow all product instructions and safety precautions—including providing adequate ventilation.^[7]

   • Chemical strippers are unremarkably applied to the surface with a brush, then scraped off with a putty knife after a designated waiting period. Follow the specific instructions that come up with your stripper.
   • Wear chemical-resistant cleaning gloves, goggles, and a respirator when applying and removing the stripper.
   • Wipe the stripped stairs with a make clean, slightly damp rag before moving on to sanding.

2. ii

   Sand away nicks, dents, and any remaining finishes with medium-dust sandpaper. To speed things up, utilize an electric random orbital sander for easily-attainable surfaces. Corners and other tight areas may require a finishing sander, sanding block, or sandpaper sheet. In the hardest-to-reach areas, a small wood chisel can assistance to remove the final bits of finish.^[viii] Handyman Walter Brant reminds that "you don't have sand away all of the existing stain if the stairs were previously stained."

   • Medium-grit sandpaper is in the 60-100 grit range.
   • Follow the product instructions carefully if y'all're using an orbital sander. Wear thick gloves, middle protection, and a respirator. Apply even force per unit area and go along the sander in constant move.
   • When sanding by hand, employ shine, even, back-and-along strokes.

3. three

   Motility on to fine-grit sandpaper to end your sanding chore. If yous're staining brand-new stairs, you may but demand to give them this final light sanding. Employ your orbital sander and/or hand sanders to requite the stairs an even texture and appearance that's set to accept stain.^[9]

   • Fine-grit sandpaper ranges from about 120-220 grit.
   • Employ gentle, even force per unit area. You desire the stairs to announced smooth but accept the slightest amount of surface texture to to accept the stain.

4. iv

   Clean away the grit with a store vacuum and tack cloths. Use the shop vacuum to suck up the majority of the dust on the steps and surrounding vicinity. Follow up by wiping down the stairs with tack cloths, which will remove whatever remaining dust.^[10]

   • As the name indicates, tack cloths are slightly gummy rags. You tin can buy them at whatsoever domicile improvement store. If you don't have a tack cloth, use slightly dampened cloths, instead.^[11]

5. v

   Plan to stain either all the stairs or every other stair, based on your needs. Ideally, y'all'll be able to close the staircase to all foot traffic for at least two days after completing the job. If this isn't possible, end every other step get-go so that the staircase tin can notwithstanding be (carefully) used. After at least two days, motion on to finishing the remaining steps.^[12]

   • In any case, always work from the top step down—it'south much easier and more than comfortable to exercise the job this mode!

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1. one

   Cull stain, varnish, and (if needed) wood conditioner of the same type. For example, if you choose an oil-based stain, as well choose an oil-based varnish and conditioner. Or, if you lot prefer a h2o-based stain, go with a water-based varnish and conditioner. Mis-matched products volition result in a rough, not-durable finish.^[13]

   • Oil-based products provide a deeper, richer, more durable finish. Water-based products are easier to clean up and are typically considered more eco-friendly.
   • Forest conditioner isn't admittedly essential, but is highly recommended in almost all cases.

2. ii

   Brush on the wood conditioner, especially with soft woods similar pine. Employ a natural bristle paintbrush or a rag to apply a thin coat of the conditioner over the forest. Use it in the direction of the forest grain, wait the recommended time (unremarkably 15 minutes), and then wipe off any excess (in the direction of the grain) with a clean rags. Let the conditioner dry for at to the lowest degree 30 minutes simply not more 2 hours before applying stain, or as recommended on the container.^[fourteen]

   • Forest conditioner causes softer wood to absorb stain more slowly, resulting in a more than even finish with fewer blotches and streaks.
   • If you lot're not sure whether your stairs are made of a soft wood (like pine), a medium wood (like walnut), or a hardwood (similar oak), get ahead and use woods conditioner. At worst, it will brand no noticeable departure in the finished stain.

3. 3

   Sand the conditioned wood lightly with fine-grit sandpaper. But before applying the outset coat of stain, lightly go over the stairs with 220-grit sandpaper to add a slight chip of roughness to the wood surface. Use tack cloths to remove the dust before proceeding.^[xv]

   • Sand in the management of the grain, using fifty-fifty strokes.

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1. ane

   Utilise the showtime glaze of stain with a paintbrush or rag. Later reading the instructions for mixing the stain, dip your castor or rag into it and utilize an even layer with smooth, long strokes that get with the grain of the woods. Allow the stain to penetrate the forest for 5-xv minutes, depending on the depth of color you desire.^[sixteen]

   • Leaving the stain on for 15 minutes will produce a deeper, richer stain color than leaving it on for 5 minutes, but it might likewise conceal some of the natural beauty of the woods grain.
   • It's really a affair of personal preference when it comes to choosing a brush or a rag—either 1 will do a good chore with the right technique.

2. ii

   Wipe off excess stain that hasn't soaked into the wood later 5-fifteen minutes. Utilize clean, dry cloths and wipe in the direction of the grain. Exercise not allow any stain that has not penetrated the wood to dry on the surface. It will cause streaks and smears.^[17]

3. 3

   Add together boosted coats if yous want a deeper, darker finish. Allow the first coat to dry completely—this typically takes about 4 hours, merely check the product instructions. If you like the wait, move on to sealing the stain. Or, if desired, add another coat of stain using the same process as before. Yous can add 3-iv total coats if yous wish.^[18]

   • Remember to go along wiping away the backlog stain 5-15 minutes after application. Allow iv hours betwixt coats.

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1. 1

   Brush on a coat of floor-form polyurethane varnish. Follow the package instructions for stirring and applying the varnish. Unless otherwise directed, use a natural bristle paintbrush and apply a thin layer using long, even strokes.

   • Stairs are high-traffic areas, so sealing them is essential.
   • Remember to use a uniform varnish—oil-based with an oil-based stain, or water-based with a water-based stain.
   • Let the varnish to dry for the recommended time, such as 4 hours.

2. two

   Sand the varnish lightly if you lot want to apply a 2d coat. One coat of varnish may exist sufficient, in which case you're all done! However, since stairs take a chirapsia from foot traffic, adding a 2nd coat isn't a bad idea. Earlier doing this, very lightly sand the varnish with 220-grit sandpaper.^[19]

   • Wipe away the dust with a tack textile before proceeding.
   • Some floor-course polyurethanes practice not require sanding between coats, particularly if the second coat is applied within 12 hours of the first coat. Cheque the product instructions.

3. three

   Apply a second coat of varnish. Utilise the same process as before. When you're done, allow the finish to dry for at least 48 hours before using the stairs.^[20]

   • After the drying time is complete, remove any drop cloths, painter'due south record, and other materials, and enjoy your beautiful new staircase!

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• Question

  Can you stain stairs without sanding?

  

  Walter Brant
  Handyman

  Walter Brant is a wikiHow customs member and contributor who has been repairing and restoring houses with over xxx years of experience. He works with homeowners to brand a broad variety of improvements to brand their homes more comfortable and liveable.

  

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• If y'all want to paint the stair risers a different colour than the stained treads, record off the treads and paint them after you lot accept stained. Prime the risers subsequently sanding. Make sure not to load the castor with also much paint, or you volition get drips on the treads.

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Things You'll Demand

• Pliers
• Pry bar
• Work gloves
• Work clothes
• Respirator
• Goggles
• Plastic sheeting
• Drop cloths
• Hammer
• Masking tape
• Painter's record
• Sandpaper/sanding cake/orbital sander
• Chemic stripper
• Rags
• Putty pocketknife
• Small forest chisel
• Shop vacuum
• Tack cloths
• Wood conditioner
• Wood stain
• Polyurethane varnish
• Paintbrushes

Almost This Article

Article Summary X

To stain stairs, programme on at least a full weekend of work, including stripping, staining, and sealing your stairs. Fix your stairs by removing whatever carpeting and moving any furniture or knick-knacks near the stairs. You'll also want to comprehend doorways with plastic sheeting and open any nearby windows for ventilation. Once your prep work is done, strip the stairs by applying a chemical stripper for heavier stains or sanding the surface to remove a lighter coat of finish. Afterward your stairs take been stripped, apply a coat of stain with a paintbrush or rag. Allow the stain to dry fully before applying a 2d and tertiary coat. When you're done staining, employ a coat of floor-grade polyurethane varnish to seal them. To learn how to find the correct color stain for your stairs, keep reading!

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Source: https://www.wikihow.com/Stain-Stairs

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